Tying the Bow on Blue Ribbon Sushi

Photo by Florian Metzner on Unsplash

The opinions reflected in this review are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the opinions of staff, faculty and students of The King's College.

For a neighborhood with such a rich history as SoHo, there’s little to do besides shopping and eating. I’d describe my first trip down Spring Street as more of a swim than a walk. Behold a vast sea of boutiques and bistros: French, Italian, American and Chinese bistros! Ten different restaurants on the same block all feature a $25 hamburger, a $35 steak and a $30 salad (you ordered it with shrimp, chump). Everything tastes good, and it all tastes the same. In such an ocean, it’s good to finally find some fish.

Blue Ribbon Restaurants own a sushi establishment on 119 Sullivan Street: Blue Ribbon Sushi, open from 4 to 10 p.m. daily. I’ve been a patron here for several years, and I’m happy to say that Blue Ribbon Sushi has survived the coronavirus pandemic. 

In 2019, the front was nondescript and understated. Apart from a tasteful bonsai in the window, you could easily pass the entrance without noticing. Now, lively discussions slip through the cloth drapes of a large wooden outdoor extension housing multiple booths. 

119 Sullivan Street echoes with business deals. A date giggles at a joke. A Japanese family cheers “Kanpai!” as they celebrate a birthday. Walk-ins are accepted but don’t count on a seat without booking a reservation. The host brought me through the curtain separating the entryway from the restaurant. Cooks at the open bar nod and grunt, “Sumimasen!” before returning their attention to an order of sashimi. Quint, one of the waiters, recognized me, and we shared a fist bump.

Customers packed the restaurant to capacity. Couples are a frequent sight. The out-of-the-way profile and dim lighting make this place a near-perfect establishment for a date. The acoustics and atmosphere are ideal for conversation. 

In fact, when close to the bar, you can almost hear (and certainly smell) fresh fish being sliced and prepped for service. In fact, the bar and front section are the ideal places to sit. The buzz and ambiance fail to reach the lonely seating area at the rear of the restaurant, where the atmosphere fades, and the tables sit too close together. 

While seating is plentiful and comfortable, the indoor booths are beginning to show their age. Wooden bench seats have minor cracks and other faults. Despite this, Blue Ribbon Sushi still maintains a SoHo bistro price point. The phrase “you get what you pay for” is much more meaningful when a dinner-for-two averages $60-80. 

Unlike other traditional Japanese sushi restaurants like Sugarfish, Blue Ribbon expects customers to tip on top of their bills. 

Most restaurants in Japan will refuse tips outright due to societal expectations regarding hospitality. In fact, there is a Sugarfish just three blocks from Blue Ribbon, providing similar quality food and service, yet tips are not expected (or even accepted).

Service at Blue Ribbon Sushi can be slow. However, unlike other bistros and eateries, the restaurant business will rarely affect the speed or accuracy of your order. While Blue Ribbon is traditional, they are also accommodating. Almost all sauces containing allergy-prone ingredients such as gluten or soy can be held or put on the side. For certain soups, the kitchen will offer to switch the broth to a clear or vegetable broth instead of a soy broth.

I ordered kuro edamame, a spicy lobster maki, and a Sushi Deluxe. The roasted kuro edamame is neither too salty nor too bland, ending with a brief nutty aftertaste. The Sushi Deluxe comprises a wide variety of 10 individual pieces, each dependent on the season. On this occasion, I  had fatty bluefin tuna, mackerel, puffy tuna, barbecued eel and several other varieties. This entree is large enough to split with a friend or a date (or both, but you probably shouldn’t be at Blue Ribbon if your love life is that complicated). 

The fish was neither oily nor odorous, a clear sign of freshness. It is also served at room temperature, indicating the fish is made-to-order rather than stashed in a reach-in. Every cut is well-chosen every time: not too chewy, not too stringy. The spicy lobster was soft and flavorful. I am more sensitive to spice than most, but the chili oil was tangy and exciting without being painful. On the way down, you feel a little firecracker go off on your tongue. A sip of water, and it’s gone. 

My experience was satisfactory, and I look forward to returning… with a full wallet, that is.

Evan Louey-Dacus is a senior studying Politics, Philosophy, and Economics. He attended Oxford as a summer student and currently works in research and business strategy. Evan is the President of the King's Debate Society and the Opinion Editor and Food Columnist at the Empire State Tribune.